By Kathryn Taylor
University of Georgia
Volume XXVIII
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Plums are popular for cooking and jam making, and many
people enjoy them fresh
as well. The sweeter varieties are some of the most delicious
dessert fruits
we have.
Plum variety
Gardeners can choose among several varieties.
“Methley,” a small but sweet early-season variety, is self-
fertile and crops
reliably. “Morris” is a commercial plum that’s productive and
firmer.
Two Auburn releases, “AU Rubrum” and “AU Producer,” produce
reliably. And several
Georgia releases, like “Spring Satin” (a plum-apricot hybrid),
the yellow-fleshed
“Byrongold” or the tasty “Rubysweet,” are good for fresh
eating.
Many gardeners prefer plums that are best when eaten green,
like “Bruce,” “Six
Weeks,” “Robusto” or “Segundo.”
Whatever you choose, you need at least two plum varieties for
pollination and
fruitfulness, since plums are generally not self-fertile.
When considering other varieties, choose trees recommended
for zones 7 or 8.
A good, central Web site that lists fruit tree nurseries is ssfruit.
cas.psu.edu/appendix/appendix1.htm.
Several Tennessee nurseries sell plum trees appropriate to the
Southeast.
Grow them most anywhere
Plums will grow all over the country but often flower early,
making them vulnerable
to spring frosts. In the home garden or landscape, proper
placement can reduce
the vulnerability of the fruit and flowers to frost.
Placing plum trees next to a wall can protect against cold
winds, mitigate
temperature inversions and allow heat storage. Placing them on
a grade, too,
allows cold air to drain into lower areas, providing
protection on frosty nights.
Another trick some gardeners use is to keep outdoor Christmas
lights on fruit
trees to protect them on cold nights.
Soil results important
A well-drained, sandy-loam soil at a pH of 6.5 is ideal for
growing plums.
It’s best to have the soil checked before you plant.
The test will tell how much lime and phosphorus to add to the
soil before planting.
Work these into the soil throughout the rooting depth —
generally, 18-24 inches
will be enough.
Don’t add any fertilizer to the planting hole. Do this later.
In the first
and second years, add 1 pound of 10-10-10 in March and 1.5
cups of calcium nitrate
in May and July. Thereafter, apply two-thirds cup of calcium
nitrate each March
and August Be careful not to place the fertilizer against the
tree’s bark.
Tree formation
Immediately after planting a 30-inch, one-year-old tree in
February or March,
cut it off at 18 to 24 inches to force bud break of lower
buds.
Then, during the summer, select about four that are at a 25-
to 30-degree angle
from the vertical, forming the framework for a “bowl”
or “vase.” The ultimate
shape of the tree depends on its growth habit.
Plum trees have forms ranging from spreading to upright and
need to be pruned
with the natural pattern in mind. Prune the upright type to
spreading limbs
and the spreading type to more upright limbs. These will
become the scaffolds
that will bear fruit close to the trunk, keeping it in easy
reach for harvest.
